Buyers Guide

For years after the second world war, The Ford Motor Company continued to offer only small-car designs based heavily on their pre-war motorcars. These, the upright Fords as they were known, offered cheap no-frills motoring for the motoring masses. But, as the 1950s rolled into sight, it was becoming obvious that to compete with fresh offerings from rival companies such as Austin and Morris, they would have to revamp their small-car range. Their answer was the 100E range.


Built for years alongside the 103E Popular, the 100E New Anglia swept in with simple 3 box saloon styling, and monocoque construction. The first (2 door) 100Es rolled off the production line late in 1953, with the 4 door New Prefect following shortly afterwards. The Prefect was a higher spec version of the basic Anglia, and basked in the glory of extra chromium trim, dual wipers, and twin sunvisors. Both new models came with PVC trim as standard to begin with, although the £13 option of leather would be offered further down the line.

Changes throughout production were evolutionary rather than revolutionary. An early improvement, introduced in January 1955, was an increase in the front brake drum diameter, from 7in to 8in, to ward off brake fade in extreme use. Despite the much improved modern lines of the 100E over the pre-war inspired 103E, it was still hampered with a 3 speed gearbox, when rivals from Austin and Morris were offering 4 speed in the A35 and Minor for instance. Aftermarket conversions were offered to overcome this backwards design feature, but Fords stuck with the 3 speed offering throughout production.

In October 1955, Deluxe versions of the Anglia and Prefect were introduced. These models were brightened up over more mundane examples courtesy of chrome strips down the body sides, chrome headlamp bezels and window surrounds, revised instrumentation, plus other minor tweaks. The base Anglia and Prefect continued alongside, although the latter now had body-painted headlamp bezels a la base Anglia. Both were bereft of nearly all chrome trim by this time, only offering cheapo painted bumpers. If you wanted chrome, you'd have to stump up the extra cash to go Deluxe.

Significant body alteration came in October 1957, when the rear window size was increased by 25%. A few minor trim updates were introduced at the same time, with revisions also being made to the rear lamp clusters. New for this season, and a rarely chosen option, was the semi-automatic clutch known as Newton Drive. This was a fiddly system to keep in adjustment, and was quietly dropped from the options list after a year or so (My Standard 10 also has the Newtondrive system, but touch wood seems reliable..).

The 100E soldiered on for a couple more years, until 1959 when the range was rejigged somewhat. Out went the 100E Anglias and Prefects. An economy version of the Anglia was brought in, known as the New Popular. This also came in basic and Deluxe versions. The base model was truly basic - no air filter, no oil pressure warning light, no ashtrays, fixed quarterlights, no chrome fripperies, no passenger sun visor, and bog standard card door trims. The Deluxe Popular however did have these heady refinements, and other joys such as rubber floor matting and padded door trims, finished with PVC. The basic 100E continued until mid 1962, with the final Deluxe Popular rolling off the production line in June. The disappearance of the Deluxe Pop signalled the end of 100E production.

Throughout production, it is worth making note of some variations to the 100E theme that came and went. Alongside the saloon, Ford offered estate versions of the 100E. The basic model was the Escort, similar in style to the 300E van version but with rear side windows and back seats. Plusher was the Squire, many of which featured faux wood styling on the side. Survivors of the Escort, Squire and indeed the Thames 300E van, are perhaps the rarest of all the 100E variants, and finding good examples of each may take some determination. For those wanting a little more oomphhh, the 107E Prefect offered the larger overhead valve engine (due to appear in the 105E Anglia) housed within the boxy 100E Prefect bodyshell, a body, it should be mentioned, that was actually built by Briggs of Dagenham.

As with so many cars that are 50 or so years old, it'll pay to tread carefully when checking over a prospective purchase. The oldest 100Es now date to the early 50s, and as cheap forms of transport, are likely to have passed through some less-than-caring hands over the years. These cars were tough old warriors, but 50 years of winter use, bodging, and missed oil changes, may well have made a lasting effect on the car you're looking at.

The engine is the 1172cc sidevalve four cylinder engine, based on, but not the same as, the earlier E93A type of 10hp lump. The 100E version featured a number of updates over the E93A, including a fixed waterpump and adjustable tappets, neither of which was standard on the earlier type. Engine parts can still be found for the 100E, although the cost of a full rebuild can swiftly add up. Do all the usual checks for any old car, ie does the engine smoke or leak profusely? are there any signs of water in the oil, or vice versa?

Of even more importance though is the condition of the body structure itself, for resurrecting a seriously corroded example would test the patience of a saint. Availability of new-old-stock panels is virtually nil (never say never though!), so you'll need to put the word out in suitable journals and websites to find the correct parts you need. Replacement trim will be hard to find, and with trim alterations being made throughout production, only a model-expert could identify what is, and is not, correct on a particular example. Rot can be found in all the usual places, eg sills, front wings (especially behind the front wheels - mud trap), jacking points, rear spring shackle mountings and both front and rear valances. A scruffy car poor in most of these areas may still qualify for an MOT, but major grot in the spring mounting areas will quickly spell trouble when it comes to MOT time. The gearboxes are usually quite long lasting, although they are known to wear their synchro rings, resulting in the lever dropping out of 2nd gear on the over-run. Play in the steering box can usually be adjusted out, so is not a major cause of alarm. Talking of the front end, a key area on the 100E bodyshell that you don't want to find problems with, is the region of the MacPherson strut mountings, on the inner wings. Manys the Popular, Anglia or Prefect that has made a one-way trip to the scrapyard, solely down to terminal tinworm in this area. Repairs can be effected, but it does take a modicum of skill. Repair sections can be bought from model specialists and clubs.

When new, the chassis number (stamped near the top suspension mounting on the offside) and engine number would match. Any replacement of engine over the years will therefore break this link. Importantly, the i.d plate mounted above the battery tray should also have this same number. This number will be preceded by 100E on RHD cars, and 101E on left hookers.

Fortunately, the 100E range is popular (no pun intended!) with the classic car fraternity, and most parts can be found secondhand to keep a car on the road. Membership of a relevant owners club is probably to be recommended, as is securing a factory workshop manual and parts list. When you start looking for a car, much will depend on your own level of knowledge and skill when it comes to car restoration and maintenance. Do you want a mint example, for wheeling out at car shows during the summer? or are you keen to take on a car that already has one eye on the scrapyard? good examples of any 100E saloon rarely stretch into the mega thousands, with very few creeping above £3000 or so even with a dealer. Most fall into the £1500-2000 bracket, where good solid cars should be available. Something with a tree growing through it, or propping up the side of an embankment, is worth whatever you'll pay for it, and whatever that is, it shouldn't be much££! Parts donor and derelict cars are still available for £50, although will require herculean amounts of work before they'll ever see the road again. If the car has lost its original registration number, it will reduce both its desirability and therefore its value. An age-related plate stands out a mile away, and many enthusiasts value a car that still possesses its correct registration. So a quick buck made by flogging on a cars number may just nobble the final sale price of the same car, should you ever sell it in future.

While the 100E may seem antiquated now, when it arrived in 1953 it was a revelation compared with its predecessor. That was the 'sit-up-and-beg' Anglia and Prefect, complete with beam axles, mechanical brakes and chassis construction. The new car dispensed with all that, although it did carry over the sidevalve engine which is perhaps the one thing that makes the car rather less usable in the 21st century - this is not a car for long or fast journeys. It's also not the best car for anyone who covers a lot of miles each year - there are several areas that need regular TLC because wear rates for some of the components are high. But as a car for occasional use it's great fun, with plenty of charm.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR
Bodywork
The 100E fares reasonably well in terms of rust resistance, compared with its contemporaries. The metal used was relatively thick and while the rustproofing methods utilised weren't especially advanced, the cars generally last well. There's no one area that usually rusts enough to relegate a 100E to scrapper status, but if lots of places have corroded badly it's never going to make sense getting involved in a full-scale restoration. More remanufactured panels are available than you'd think, and they're not as expensive as you'd imagine. However, if major surgery is required you could easily spend hundreds on just a few panels.

The classic Ford rust spot is the top of each MacPherson strut mounting, and it's no different with the 100E. Lift the bonnet to make sure that if new metal has been welded in, it's been seam welded because anything less won't be strong enough. The inner wings, to which these strut tops are attached, are also rust-prone; the whole of each panel needs careful inspection, as do the bottom edges of each front outer wing and the seam where the wings meet the front valance. These places should be rustproofed annually, or at least checked for corrosion.

A caring owner will have drilled a hole at the ends of each sill, so that anti-rust wax can be injected every couple of years. Whether this has been done or not, tap along the length of each sill, listening for dull thuds to indicate filler; a hollow ring is what you are hoping for.

The rear spring hangers rot and without regular waxoyling they'll eventually succumb to the tinworm. It's a similar tale for the jacking points located along the car's underside: there's one each side on the saloon while vans and estates had two on each side. Also take a look at the underside of each door as these rot out after filling up with water (a consequence of the window's rubber sealing strip perishing).

Mechanicals
Engines last just 40,000 miles between rebuilds - if they're thrashed mercilessly or maintenance is skimped, this can be reduced to just 25,000 miles. Changing the oil every 3000 miles can make all the difference, perhaps even doubling the mileage racked up between rebuilds.

Most of the problem is down to the big ends being white-metalled; not very durable but it also increases the rebuild costs. Revive a tired 100E powerplant and it will cost well over £1000 - and when a whole car in good condition is worth that, it doesn't make much economic sense.

It is possible to convert to shell-type bearings, but the engine still needs to be rebuilt every 40,000 miles because of bore wear - but at least those rebuilds are easier and cheaper. The best way of checking for wear is to see if there are any fumes coming from the oil filler cap; remove the cap while the engine is idling, and if there are thick fumes being emitted, a rebuild is on the cards.

Even the overhead-valve engine in the 107E can't be expected to give much more than 70,000 miles between rebuilds; rumbling from the main bearings is the most obvious sign of wear. Once a 107E engine rebuild is due, the usual course of action is to slot in a used 105E unit, which is identical and can be picked up for anything from £50 upwards.

The 100E was fitted with a three-speed manual gearbox while the 107E had an extra ratio. It's unlikely that you'll find a 100E with the Newtondrive clutchless manual transmission that was available for just a year (October 1957 to October 1958). All 100E and 107E gearboxes whine; once it starts a rebuild won't be needed for thousands of miles - the trick is to work out how long ago it started to make a racket. You'll also be able to beat the synchromesh without difficulty; try changing up and down fairly quickly and there'll probably be some crunching. Now is the time to rediscover the lost art of double declutching.

Gearboxes last 40,000 miles, with second gear synchromesh being the first thing to go. See if the car jumps out of second gear - if it does, a rebuild is on the cards. A rebuilt unit with new bearings is £250, but if lots of replacement parts are required the bill will be up to three times that.

With a bit of luck the previous owner will have changed the gearbox and back axle oil (EP90) every 5000 miles. Listen for whining from the diff', indicating that it's getting worn. Once the noise starts the diff' will keep going for ages, so it's not on the verge of self-destruction; when it does need reviving, rebuilding it is not a DIY prospect because of the number of special tools required. If you're planning on buying the car for the long term, and the diff' is worn, it's worth fitting a 107E unit because while it doesn't make any practical difference in use, it can be rebuilt at home.

If you're really lucky, the car will be fitted with overdrive - there were three aftermarket units available. Laycock offered an electrically operated unit while a mechanical one was sold by Murray. The third type was the vacuum-operated Handa unit. Not many cars have them fitted, as most have been snapped up by specials owners - but look around and they can be tracked down for £275 or so.

As you release the clutch to start off, feel for any judder. If there are signs of it, it's probably because the engine or gearbox mountings have gone soft. Inspect them for deterioration; if you need to replace them expect to pay £31 each for new engine mountings from the Ford Sidevalve Owners' Club. Small Ford Spares sells replacement gearbox mountings for £24.85 each.

Your final transmission check is for worn propshaft universal joints. Move the car forward and backwards, listening for clonks as the drive is taken up. The joints need to be lubricated (with lithium-based grease) every 1000 miles - often they're not.

Steering and Suspension
Don't be surprised if you turn the steering wheel and there's little action at the road wheels. There are nine grease points in the steering mechanism, including the track rod ends, and they all need to be lubricated every 1000 miles. Failure to stick to the correct servicing schedule means premature wear, so get somebody to look at the road wheels as you turn the steering wheel. Replacing everything is easy and cheap enough; replacement track rod ends are £26.50 per pair while track control arms are £45 each on an exchange basis.

The steering box itself can give problems, so feel for stiff spots as the steering wheel is turned. This indicates that there's been some over-tightening to compensate for wear in the box. Such wear will have been accelerated by allowing the box to run dry - it should have been topped up every 500 miles because leaks are pretty much a given. If the steering is very stiff generally, it's because of the top mountings of the MacPherson struts. These contain a ball race, which eventually seizes up after 40-50,000 miles. It is possible to grease it and keep it going indefinitely, but few owners do this. When the races do need replacing, expect to pay £30 for a pair of replacements per side.

Give the car a bounce test at each corner, by pushing down firmly and seeing if it quickly settles. If it keeps bouncing up and down, it's time to replace the shock absorbers. The MacPherson struts fitted at the front can be rebuilt, with the new parts costing £60 per side.

If you can hear a rumbling from the back end, jack the car up and feel for play in the wheel bearings. If there's significant wear present, it's not just a case of replacing the wheel bearings. Because the needle roller hub bearings run directly within the casing of the axle, the casing wears away and has to be sleeved. There's nothing that can be done to stop the erosion, so jack up the car and try to lift the wheel. If there's any detectable vertical movement it's time to fit a resleeving kit, which costs £'175.

The brakes are merely adequate, with an all-drum set-up installed. Seven-inch units were fitted until 1955, and eight-inch drums after that. Parts such as wheel cylinders are getting hard to find for the earlier system, but it's possible to convert to the later one. However, this isn't straightforward as the more recent backplates, hubs and wheel cylinders are all required. If the work has already been done, make sure it's been carried out properly; if you plan to do it yourself, the FSOC has produced a useful book (more of which later) detailing what's required.

If there's lots of pedal travel before the brakes do anything, it's probably because the system needs adjusting. There are six places where play can be taken up, and unless they're all adjusted regularly, there'll be more play than necessary.

A hub puller is needed to change the rear brake shoes, an example of which can be picked up at an autojumble for £10-15. Any owner keen on keeping the car in fine fettle will have one of these pullers, which they should include in the car's asking price. If they don't have one, they may never have replaced the brake shoes - which could be a problem if they've owned the car for years!

Make sure the handbrake is working properly, as its linkage can seize up if not greased every 1000 miles. Try to hold the car on a hill then push it on the flat and check it doesn't quickly grind to a halt. If all doesn't seem very well, look for the two grease nipples to the offside of the propshaft and see if they've been used recently.

The original steel brake pipes will be just a distant memory by now. They're rotprone, and especially so in the area where they pass above the rear axle. The only way of sorting the problem out is to fit Kunifer items - the chances are this will already have been done.

Electrics and trim
You won't find a wiring loom much more basic than the 100E's - there's just the one fuse (fitted to the indicator circuit) and little else to go wrong. But while such simplicity means the system is generally reliable, if anything is allowed to short out it can lead to problems. So check that everything works and ensure the loom hasn't burned out anywhere from an unprotected short circuit. If anything isn't working (and there aren't many parts to check), it's more likely to be corroded connectors rather than burned-out wiring.

Any new trim, whether interior or exterior, has long gone in general terms. But the odd piece of trim does still crop up at autojumbles, and there's not much exterior trim on the 100E anyway. Items such as carpet sets, windscreen seals and headlinings can be bought from East Kent Trim Supplies. If you're keen to retain originality it's possible to buy remanufactured rubber floor mats from Small Ford Spares, at £175 for a full set.

Worthwhile upgrades
Whichever engine is fitted, if it refuses to start when hot, or it misfires while it's running, it's probably because of fuel starvation. The mechanical fuel pump is positioned near the exhaust manifold and as a result the petrol evaporates. From 1956 a different fuel pump was fitted, which was better insulated from the engine block's heat. Fitting one of these usually fixes the problem - the complete kit (with studs and gasket) is £45. If this doesn't sort it out, an electric fuel pump can be fitted for a guaranteed fix.

If you've got a 107E, you don't have to stick with a 997cc engine, as a 1200cc powerplant is externally the same; it slots straight in and increases the performance usefully. Just make sure the brakes are able to cope with the increase in power!

Why should you buy one
That period charm
Ridiculously under-valued
Bodyshells are tough
Surprisingly practical